Between Frames · Baja California

Bajamar

14 photographs

Photo index · 21 photographs

Growing up, we were the walkers crossing Bajamar’s fairways for sunrise and sunset, the kids looking for treasure and life in the tide pools. We kept quiet when golfers were teeing off because, when the course had a marshal, they would chase you off.

A red flag and green beyond rugged coastal rocks, with the ocean behind.
The coastal green · Ektachrome01 / 14

I played once as a high schooler, but at seventeen I was more interested in the beers the clubhouse didn’t mind selling me. We always heard the tale of a young Tiger Woods and his dad, Earl, staying at the house. Now that I love golf, I understand how special that original guest book is.

A cart path runs through coastal scrub beside the fairways and rocky shoreline.
Along the fairways · Ektachrome02 / 14
An open house guest book with a handwritten entry reading Tiger & Earl Woods.
The original guest book · Expired Kodak 40003 / 14

These days, our trips down mean going to the beach, exploring the wineries, trying different restaurants, and fitting in as much golf as possible. Golf at Bajamar is the purest form of meditation for me. It’s zero frills, with great views and great holes, and with my regimen I typically have the place to myself.

A cracked cart path passes beneath mature trees in the shade.
Under the trees · Ektachrome04 / 14
Baker stands beside a red flag on a green overlooking the ocean.
Baker at the flag · Ektachrome05 / 14

A jam-packed itinerary usually means Baker and I are at the pro shop fifteen minutes before it opens. Sometimes the staff are there at opening, and sometimes we wait forty-five minutes. The goal is always to be first on the tee box so we can get back to Casa Contenta and keep the day going.

Baker grabs the flag, hunts for balls, and works his way through the snacks. When Romee comes along, they switch back and forth between being loving siblings and bickering, sometimes from one hole to the next.

Baker and Romee stand together with the coastal golf course behind them.
Baker & Romee · Ektachrome06 / 14
Baker heads toward the golf cart while Romee follows across the green.
Back to the cart · Ektachrome07 / 14

My ideal day starts on the tee at seven. We play the first nine in an hour to get ahead of anyone starting on the back, then take our sweet time from fourteen through eighteen. We hunt for premium balls in the canyon around the island green, then lose a few on the long stretch along the water from fifteen through eighteen.

Baker holds a blue flagstick and a putter on a green above the ocean.
Flag duty · Expired Kodak 40008 / 14
Baker smiles from the golf cart with a golf ball in his hand.
Baker in the cart · Portra 40009 / 14
A long-necked bird rises above a grassy ridge against a cloudy sky.
Above the ridge · Ektachrome10 / 14
A catlike animal sits in the grass beside a green, with dry inland hills beyond.
Beside the green · Ektachrome11 / 14

Bajamar feels somewhere between its glory days and a revival. The unfinished buildings bordering the course belong to one of a few failed developments intended for an adjacent community. They sit vacant now, though sometimes squatters offer to sell golf balls. Within Bajamar, new homes are going up and fairly large tournaments are drawing golfers from across Baja Norte. Unfortunately, the green fees are going up too.

Vacant unfinished concrete-block buildings and exposed steel border the golf course.
An unfinished neighbor · Portra 40012 / 14

The course itself has changed. The old eighteenth was an uphill par four, but when they built an event center near the seventeenth fairway, now the eighteenth, they converted a few holes and adjusted the layout. The old eighteenth’s tee boxes and fairway have been lost, but they’ve always kept the green maintained. On days I can’t fit in a round, I wander over there. That three-tier green has become my own personal practice area.

The maintained former eighteenth green sits in a rocky hollow beneath a winding cart path.
The old eighteenth · Portra 40013 / 14

I love bringing my raw clubs down and watching the sea air rust them in real time during a round.

Raw clubs with rust on their heads lie in the grass.
Sea air · Portra 40014 / 14

I grew up coming to Bajamar, and now I get to bring Baker and Romee along. Our visits mean days at the beach, time at the tide pools, and exploring together. I love getting to share those days with them.

Index of plates

The contact sheet

All 21 photographs, including 7 outside the story.

A red flag and green beyond rugged coastal rocks, with the ocean behind. The coastal green01
A cart path runs through coastal scrub beside the fairways and rocky shoreline. Along the fairways02
An open house guest book with a handwritten entry reading Tiger & Earl Woods. The original guest book03
A cracked cart path passes beneath mature trees in the shade. Under the trees04
Baker stands beside a red flag on a green overlooking the ocean. Baker at the flag05
Baker and Romee stand together with the coastal golf course behind them. Baker & Romee06
Baker heads toward the golf cart while Romee follows across the green. Back to the cart07
Baker holds a blue flagstick and a putter on a green above the ocean. Flag duty08
Baker smiles from the golf cart with a golf ball in his hand. Baker in the cart09
A long-necked bird rises above a grassy ridge against a cloudy sky. Above the ridge10
A catlike animal sits in the grass beside a green, with dry inland hills beyond. Beside the green11
Vacant unfinished concrete-block buildings and exposed steel border the golf course. An unfinished neighbor12
The maintained former eighteenth green sits in a rocky hollow beneath a winding cart path. The old eighteenth13
Raw clubs with rust on their heads lie in the grass. Sea air14
A building with red tile roofs and a glass tower stands beyond the fairway, trees, palms, and cart path. Across the fairway15
Rounded grassy mounds surround a white flag beneath a blue sky. Mounds and flag16
A white flag stands on a green with unfinished buildings and exposed columns behind it. Beyond the green17
Baker points toward the camera from the grass, with rocky cliffs and the ocean behind him. Baker above the coast18
A rock painted with the Bajamar name and logo stands above the rocky coastline. The course marker19
Baker smiles beside Romee, who holds a plastic bottle, on a green backed by dry hills. Together on the green20
Baker smiles in the golf cart while holding a brown bottle with a torn gold wrapper. Baker, smiling21

21 photographs

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